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There are lots of different way to pleat a tartan,  sometimes to the sett, but often to a dominant stripe. It means that the back of the kilt can look very different to the front. Traditionally military kilts were pleated to a line, which made re-sizing very easy

This is one example using the Wildcat tartan, showing the pinned test sample and the  finished  kilts













Fraser of Struy tartan in original colours